My friends Ralph and Alina brought their Tylercraft 26 to my marina on their way from the southern side of Long Island, where they bought the boat two years ago, back to Maine, where they live. That was two seasons ago.
Earlier this season, Ralph and Alina got married. They have been working on recommissioning s/v Alina Marie and preparing to finish bringing her back up to Maine. I’ve helping them out.
Some of the projects that s/v Alina Marie needed done were critical.
The standing rigging needed to be inspected. We found some issues with the standing rigging as well as the spreaders—most of which have been dealt with.
The port-side lower shrouds still need to be repaired, as whomever did the last rigging job on the boat put nicropress eyes in the upper end which were connected directly to the mast tang plate. These will have the upper eyes cut off and replace with Hayn Hi-Mod forks.
We cut off the lower end of one of the starboard lower shrouds, since the turnbuckle was bottomed out. We replaced it with a Norseman mechanical stud, which gave us the ability to tune the rigging properly.
The spreaders were pointed down slightly, which was a problem. They couldn’t be adjusted to point upwards and bisect the angle the cap shrouds make with the spreaders. We cut off the old spreader mounting pin, which was a 1/2″ x 12″ bolt with a 8″ one.
I cut one of the old spacers in half and used it on the new spreader mounting pin to allow the spreaders to be mounted proper. The spreaders, which are 1″ aluminum pipe with 1/8″ walls were drilled and tapped for retaining screws that go into a hole in the spacer.
A wooden plug was inserted into the outboard ends of each spreader and pinned in place using a set screw. The wooden plugs had a slot cut into each end and a stainless steel strap was used to retain the cap shroud.
We also added two padeyes to each spreader for blocks. One set will be used to hoist a radar reflector. The others will be used for flag halyards.
We also had to replace the masthead truck sheaves for the mainsail halyard and jib halyards.
The jib halyard had to have a new eye added to it. For some reason, the jib halyard was made with vinyl coated stainless steel wire. The compression fitting was made over the vinyl coating and was on the verge of failure as the vinyl had prevented it from crimping down properly and had allowed the inner wire to creep. I’ve removed the vinyl coating from the terminal end and remade the eye with a swaged collar and thimble.
The masthead truck was also drilled and tapped to allow the VHF antenna and new wind instrument to be mounted to it. The wiring for the two was run down the center of the mast. This shouldn’t interfere with the halyards, which are all run externally.
The boom gooseneck was also re-built and heavier screws were added to keep the boom attached to the gooseneck. The mainsail on the Tylercraft apparently used roller furling around the boom originally, since the gooseneck has a spring-loaded pin and the mainsheet attaches to a tailpiece that can revolve freely. We’ll be switching to standard slab reefing, which is far more reliable and gives far better sail shape when reefed. It also allows the use of a boom vang and/or boom brake far more readily.
We re-bedded all of the stanchions using butyl tape as the bedding compound. According to Ralph and Alina, all the newly re-bedded hardware no longer leaks, leaving the cabin interior a lot drier.
I also crimped and cut a replacement stainless steel stanchion for the stern pushpit. This gives completes the stern pushpit, which will be used for mounting the 18 watt solar panel that s/v Alina Marie will be using to keep her batteries topped off. She’ll normally be lying to a mooring in Maine, so some sort of passive recharging is necessary.
We replaced the chain hawse pipe. We replaced the fresh water tank fill. Both are bedded in butyl tape, and neither has leaked since.
The only real piece of deck hardware that needs to be re-bedded is the mooring bitt. The problem with removing it is frozen bolts. They’ll be cut off shortly and the piece re-bedded using butyl tape.
The tiller was replaced with a new one provided by my friend Ken, of s/v Sea Spirit.
The Tylercraft 26 was originally designed with an inboard Yanmar diesel. At some point in the past, the inboard was removed. The stuffing box on s/v Alina Marie has been sealed off and a 9.9 HP outboard motor was added to the boat using a spring-loaded mount on the transom. The outboard is offset to the port side but the original installation had the springs incorrectly installed, so they weren’t providing the full support they were designed to give.
However, when the outboard motor mount was installed it was not properly reinforced. The plan is to move the outboard motor mount to the centerline and add two layers of 1/2″ plywood that has been epoxy-saturated as a backing plate/transom reinforcement. There is enough room between the rudder and the transom that mounting the engine on center line shouldn’t be an issue.
As part of prepping the boat for new reinforced motor mount project, we removed the old Yanmar controls. That cleans up the cockpit quite a bit.
The Yamaha 9.9 HP engine needs a new carburetor, since the choke butterfly valve has seized. The problem is poor maintenance by the previous owner. The butterfly valve shaft was bronze or brass and the carburetor body is aluminum. The galvanic corrosion caused by the dis-similar metals caused it to seize up. We have a new carburetor on order and it will be replace as soon as it gets in.
Basically, we’re building the electrical system in the boat from scratch. I made up a temporary electrical panel using a piece of 3/8″ plywood I had left over from my cabin sole lockers project. Mounted on the panel are:
- A fuse block for six circuits;
- the main 1/2/Both battery switch;
- a Blue Sea ACR;
- an old three switch panel with a voltmeter and the switches for the navigation lights;
- the charge controller for the solar panel;
- a buss bar for the ground connections;
- a buss bar for the positive connection;
- a terminal strip for the NMEA 0183 connections between the GPS and VHF
The navigation lights were repaired and several had their crystals replaced.
The new VHF and GPS chartplotter were installed and wired together to provide DSC capability for s/v Alina Marie.
An 18 watt solar panel is going to be wired into the system to allow s/v Alina Marie to charge her batteries while not attached to shore power. The panel can also work for winter maintenance charging. The BlueSea ACR will allow the panel to charge both battery banks without user intervention.
A new mounting plate for the bilge pumps was made from a piece of polycarbonate. The plate will be epoxied to the hull and has the pumps mounted to it using screws that fit into the t-nuts that were epoxied to the plate. This makes mounting and removing the bilge pumps quite simple. The lower bilge pump is a 500 GPH maintenance pump. The higher mounted pump is a 1700 GPH pump which will turn on if the maintenance pump isn’t capable of keeping up with the water inflow. Personally, I’d like to see a larger capacity emergency pump installed.
A new deck fill for the fresh water tank was installed and a new hose will be run to connect it to the tank. The tank needs to be cleaned thoroughly before it can be used for potable water. However, the plan is to use smaller, portable tanks for drinking water, while the tank water will be used for cleaning dishes, etc.
The head is currently going to be a porta-potty. However, the plan is to order a Raritan PHC LBA unit and recycle the existing porcelain bowl to create a brand new Raritan PHC head for the boat. The boat has a holding tank, but the hoses do all need to be replaced.
Hull and cabintop:
The support arm for the main companionway poptop needs to be replaced. I’ll be trying to duplicate it in stainless. The original looks like it was either EMT conduit or aluminum tubing. Stainless steel will be far stronger, if a bit heavier. The poptop is being refurbished by Ralph up in Maine and he will be bringing it back in October.
The transom is being reinforced as discussed earlier to support the outboard motor properly.
The hull was flexing forward of the twin keels, between the main cabin and the v-berth. I’ve reinforced the area by glassing in some pipe insulation that was cut in half and then glassing over it. The reason for the flex is because the original wooden stringers that reinforced the area had rotted over the years and had not been glassed over, so the hull lost a lot of structural rigidity when the stringers rotted out.
I used a thickened epoxy putty made by Progressive Epoxy Products in New Hampshire to glass in the first six layers of fiberglass over the pipe insulation. It has the advantage of being able to bond and cure in wet areas, even underwater if necessary, and the hull in that area was damp from water in the bilge. I still have a bit more glass work to do on the hull in that area before I’ll be satisfied with it.
I hope to get a bit more work done on s/v Alina Marie before Ralph and Alina get back down here in October.